Grasse is about an hour drive from Monaco. We hit the public WC and were engulfed by a student protest march as soon as we got back on the street. The French sure know how to put on a march. Apparently they love bringing everything to a standstill without accomplishing a damn thing. This is according to Phillipe, the chef and owner of a restaurant in Paris that Rick Steves recommended. We were his first customers of the evening so we had the place and him to ourselves. While we were perusing the menu, I notice him take a bottle of Johnnie Walker Red and pour about four fingers over rocks then place the glass over the bar into his kitchen workspace. As soon as he served us he went into the kitchen then reappeared with a plate of steak tartare and mashed potatoes and proceeded to sit down to eat and converse with us. He lived in Philadelphia for 3 years where he owned a French takeout place. He’d been back in Paris for about 7 years. He was very funny and I was sure he was gay but then this beautiful child glided in and gave him the 3 cheek kiss saying, “Bonjour Papa.” She was probably 11 or 12 with braces but just absolutely gorgeous. It seems French girls do not have an ugly stage. I heard her talking to Phillipe in the kitchen and repeating, “What are you doing?” in English. They then walked out and asked us how we say, “What are you doing?” which word to accent. We were a little confused as to what they were asking but then I threw my hand out in front of me and said, “What’re ya doin?” The child said “Oui, that’s eet!” and proceeded to mimick it perfectly over and over. It was for her English class apparently. She then left us, going to their home above the restaurant. But … I digress.
Grasse is the perfume capital of France. We had a coffee in the square next to the fountain and did some window shopping before going to the Fraconard museum and perfume factory. I was so impressed, I bought perfume … and I seldom wear perfume. We went back to the square, had lunch, and wandered the narrow streets a little more before getting back on the road headed for Biot.
Biot is known for it’s glassmaking and ceramics. We parked at the foot of the hill and proceeded to scale the side to the top where the old village is. Like on the Eifel Tower, I had to stop a few times. But was it ever worth it! At the top were these very narrow passages with doorways that were framed in potted flowers and vines. The stuff of every romantic picture I had in my head of one of these hilltop villages. There were old public sinks that still were in use. When we got to the square the first shop we saw was Verrerie du Village with creations by Pascal Guyot. The shop was situated at the juncture of two streets, one higher than the other. On the upper street you could look through an open window down into the glassblowing shop. On the lower street you were on the same level as the glassblowers. I could have watched all day except it was really hot because of the furnace. I bought a necklace in the shop. We wandered around, had a beer and decided Biot was our favorite place since leaving Paris.
Grasse is the perfume capital of France. We had a coffee in the square next to the fountain and did some window shopping before going to the Fraconard museum and perfume factory. I was so impressed, I bought perfume … and I seldom wear perfume. We went back to the square, had lunch, and wandered the narrow streets a little more before getting back on the road headed for Biot.
Biot is known for it’s glassmaking and ceramics. We parked at the foot of the hill and proceeded to scale the side to the top where the old village is. Like on the Eifel Tower, I had to stop a few times. But was it ever worth it! At the top were these very narrow passages with doorways that were framed in potted flowers and vines. The stuff of every romantic picture I had in my head of one of these hilltop villages. There were old public sinks that still were in use. When we got to the square the first shop we saw was Verrerie du Village with creations by Pascal Guyot. The shop was situated at the juncture of two streets, one higher than the other. On the upper street you could look through an open window down into the glassblowing shop. On the lower street you were on the same level as the glassblowers. I could have watched all day except it was really hot because of the furnace. I bought a necklace in the shop. We wandered around, had a beer and decided Biot was our favorite place since leaving Paris.
The first picture is one of the passages in Biot. The second is the fountain in Grasse.
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